Play is essential to human life. If play wasn't a part of life how do you think life would be? How would you be as a person? Play has helped humans evolve into what they are today. It has made each of us grow into are individuality. I have evolved through play.
Surfing is not just a sport you do to be considered a "cool dude"; it is much more than that. On my sixteenth birthday my views on surfing changed. Surfing has always been a big deal to people that live by the beach. Some of the true surfers surf for the love of the ocean not for the popularity that can come along with it. Most people that try surfing because they want to see what the talk is all about, are looked at as the poser surfers. Which is not true for all; because I now understand what its truly like to surf. You cant ever feel the beauty of surfing unless you see the beauty that is around you. The sun setting over the mountains and the tall green palm trees hovering over your head. The view is something you keep framed in your mind forever. Getting up on a surf board is one of the hardest things to do and that's why most newcomers give up on surfing so fast. Just the way you have to move your elbows out at an angle and have your knees bent a certain way so that your body is all balanced together. You'll never get surfing the first three try's, but always keep telling yourself you can do it and have confidence you'll be up in no time. The first time getting up is amazing; just knowing that everyone around you is so proud. Knowing you faced your fear of water because maybe your not that good of a swimmer. Feeling the wind blow through your hair and the water touching your finger tips. Makes you feel that you can take on the world. That is the true love for surfing. That day I realized surfing could evolve someone into a confident person. By knowing they could do whatever they want to do when they are ready to do it.
A majority of...